Saturday, 27 February 2010

A Sartorial Lexicon_'patois of the row'

Some of the 'jargon' used by the tailors of savile row

Tools of the Trade


Baby _stuffed cloth pad on which the tailor works his cloth.
Banger_piece of wood with handle, used to draw out steam and smooth cloth during ironing.

Board_ Tailor's workbench.
Dolly_Roll of wet material used as a sponge to dampen cloth.
Goose iron_hand iron heated on a naked flame.
Mangle_sewing machine.


Balance_adjustment of back and front lengths of a jacket to harmonise with the posture of a particular figure.

Baste_garment roughly assembled for first fitting.
Basting_tacking with long stitches to hold garment parts together.
Bespoke_a suit made on or around Savile Row bespoken to the customer's specifications. A bespoke suit is cut by an individual and made by highly skilled individual craftsmen. The pattern is made specifically for the customer and the finished suit will take a minimum of 50 hours of hand work and require a series of fittings.
Bundle_components of jacket or trousers bundled together for making-up.

Thursday, 25 February 2010

pattern display_elevation studies

iterations_further experiments with transfers, acetate, manila paper, linen


 

The Visceral & The Sartorial pt.III


 

anderson & sheppard_plan

plan  (street level) of existing layout anderson & sheppard, illustrating in particular the arrangement of the cutting room.(workshop level to follow)


Monday, 22 February 2010

Wednesday, 17 February 2010