A Sartorial Lexicon_'patois of the row'

Some of the 'jargon' used by the tailors of savile row

Tools of the Trade


Baby _stuffed cloth pad on which the tailor works his cloth.
Banger_piece of wood with handle, used to draw out steam and smooth cloth during ironing.
Board_ Tailor's workbench.
Dolly_Roll of wet material used as a sponge to dampen cloth.
Goose iron_hand iron heated on a naked flame.
Mangle_sewing machine.


Balance_adjustment of back and front lengths of a jacket to harmonise with the posture of a particular figure.

Baste_garment roughly assembled for first fitting.
Basting_tacking with long stitches to hold garment parts together.
Bespoke_a suit made on or around Savile Row bespoken to the customer's specifications. A bespoke suit is cut by an individual and made by highly skilled individual craftsmen. The pattern is made specifically for the customer and the finished suit will take a minimum of 50 hours of hand work and require a series of fittings.
Bundle_components of jacket or trousers bundled together for making-up.

Canvas_a cloth usually made from cotton, flax, hemp or jute and used for providing strength or firmness.
Coat_jacket. (Only potatoes have jackets - it used to be said).
Cutting system_method of pattern preparation using a particular process of measurement and figure evaluation. Scores have been devised since methods of working out the proportions of the figure were first explored in the late eighteenth century.
Draft_sketch or measure plan of a garment.
Gorge_where the collar is attached.
Interlining_material positioned between lining and outer fabric to provide bulk or warmth.



Made-to-measure_garment made to a customer's individual requirements, to some extent, but not necessarily by hand.
Pattern_a template model used for cutting garments.
Rock of eye_Rule of thumb: using instinct born of experience, rather than a scientific cutting system.
Scye_the armhole: from 'arm's eye'.
Skirt_part of a jacket that hangs below the waist.
Striker_Assistant to a cutter.

Balloon...having a balloon_a week without work or pay.
Bodger_Crude worker. Common to other trades.
Boot_loan until payday. Can you spare the boot? - can you give me a loan? Dates from crossed-leg days, when a tailor recorded the loan by chalking it on the sole of his boot.
Bunce_a trade perk, like mungo and a crib (see below).
Bushelman_Journeyman who alters or repairs.
Cat's face - a small shop opened by a cutter starting out on his own.
Chuck a dummy_to faint. Allusion is to a tailor's dummy tumbling over.
Clapham Junction_a paper design draft with numerous alterations or additions.
Codger_Tailor who does up old suits


Cork_ the boss.
Crib _ large scrap of cloth left over from a job, usually enough to make a pair of trousers or a skirt.
Crushed beetles_ badly made button holes.
Cutting turf_ clumsy, unskilled working.
Doctor_ alteration tailor.
Drag...in the drag_ working behind time.
Drummer_ trouser-maker.
Have you been on the board?_ are you experienced?
Hip stay_ old-time name for wife.
Jeff_ a small master: one who cuts out his garments and also makes them up.
Kicking_ looking for another job.
Kicking your heels_ no work to do.
Kill_ a spoiled job that has to be thrown away.
Kipper_ A tailoress. So called because they sought work in pairs to avoid unwelcome advances.
Log...on the log_ piecework: the traditional and complex system of paying out-workers.
Mungo_ cloth cuttings, which by custom the tailor used to retain to sell to a rag merchant for a little extra income.


On the cod_ gone drinking.
Pig_ an unclaimed garment.
Pigged_ a lapel which turns up after some wear.
Pinked...pink a job_ making with extra care.
Skiffle_ a job needed in a hurry.
Skipping it_ making the stitches too big
Small seams_ warning call when someone being discussed enters workroom.
Soft sew_ an easily worked cloth.
Tab _ fussy, difficult customer.
Trotter_ fetcher and carrier: messenger.
Tweed merchant_ Tailor who does the easy work: a poor workman.
Whipping the cat_ Travelling round and working in private houses: common practice in old days when a tailor would be given board and lodging while he made clothes for a family and their servants.